The gradual change of sentiment from the negative in the beginning of the year to the positive by the year-end should demonstrate the course some of these commodities have charted during the year.

Market fundamentals of demand and supply, changing inventory levels, currency fluctuations tiffany jewelry and investor interest have all had their say in impacting prices and provided a strong end to the year, least expected at the beginning.

Interestingly, crude is ending the year at a level that most producers are likely to perceive as benign.

Oil market balances are normalising. With improvements in underlying global demand, price aspirations are sure to move higher in the New Year. Sugar prices have set yet another fresh 28-year high (testing 26 cents a pound) with the fundamental backdrop supporting prices.

That brings us to the eternal favourite gold. Prices are up 30 per cent so far this year, despite the precious metal’s weak fundamentals. Expansion of mine supply, decline in jewellery demand, rise in scrap sales to a new high – almost everything was going against the metal, except of course investor interest.

Uncertainty in the financial markets and inflation expectation has fuelled interest in gold as a safe haven investment and hedge against inflation.

The official sector, seller for two decades, is now a buyer. This single factor has infused a bullish outlook to the precious metal.

With the dollar strengthening against the euro last week, gold suffered huge losses.

For the first time since November 6, prices fell below $1,100 an ounce weighed down by drop in equity tiffany accessories too. On Friday, London PM Fix was at $1,104.50/oz, down from $1,117/oz the previous day. Silver too fell in sympathy to $ 17.31/oz (Friday AM Fix) from $ 11.40/oz of the previous day. However, speculative interest in gold is still at elevated levels.

In the absence of fresh fundamental news-flows, short-term factors such as dollar strengthening is likely to pressure gold prices lower in the near term. Silver’s fundamentals are poor.

However, there is strong investor interest as a cheap proxy for the yellow metal.

So, silver is more vulnerable to downside price movement in the event the dollar strengthens.

Into the next year, experts assert gold prices will continue to be supported by strong investor appetite and central bank buying. Central banks seem to show signs that they are switching from net sellers of gold to net buyers.

It is anybody’s guess what would happen over the coming months.

The year 2009 is the first year since 1989 when central bank sales and purchases are somewhat balanced. That is tffany keys year end news for gold bulls.

In development for four years, the Victoria & Albert Museum’s Jewellery Gallery opened last month. It was a considerable challenge for the designers, but an innovative approach has resulted in a show-stopping space, says Henrietta Thompson

The sheer quantity of diamonds in this room is enough to make anyone woozy. The sponsors, William and Judith Bollinger of the champagne dynasty, are most likely used to having that effect on people, but you’ve got to feel for everyone else involved in the Victoria & Albert Museum’s new Jewellery Gallery. For the curator, the exhibition designer, the conservators, the museum staff and security, the task of displaying 3500 items of eye-wateringly important genuine bling – items that range from two to 2000 years old – in a very small space, where a very large number of people want to see them, must have been daunting.

Talking to those people, you get the impression the process has not been easy, but it has been worth it. The William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery, which opened at the V&A on 24 May, has been in development for the best part of four years and is, to use a rather obvious turn of phrase, a new jewel in the museum’s crown. Designed by Eva Jiricna Architects, the walls of the gallery tell the story of European jewellery over the past 800 years. For the refurbishment, EJA has connected what were previously three galleries to make one, with a central mezzanine floor, creating 30 per cent extra space. Glass cases line the walls and a series of curved glass cabinets wind through the centre.

EJA has previously worked on other galleries in the V&A’s FuturePlan developments, including the Dorothy and Michael Hintze Sculpture Galleries on the first floor and the main museum shop, which also contains a significant amount of jewellery to buy. The architect has also designed many a jewellery shop over the past ten years or so – from watch retailers on Bond Street to a jewellery market in Dubai. But while it is hard to imagine a better-suited designer for this show, it has been a challenge, nonetheless. Putting jewellery on display in a museum environment is very different to building a shop, explains Eva Jiricna.

‘There are fewer conservation issues for a start. And fewer security issues. In a shop the objects will be taken out of their cases in the evening and stored,’ she says. And, of course, people are navigating the space in an entirely different way. In a shop they can browse randomly, whereas this gallery has (at least) 3500 stories to tell. ‘Some people will treat the exhibition like a study book and check everything, while others just wander through for the visual experience.’

A more glorious space than you would usually find in a museum, you almost feel like donning a black tie to swan around the gallery, peering into the cases with your nose up against the glass like Audrey Hepburn in the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This has a lot to do with the sheer abundance of glittering diamonds, but is also a result of the dramatic dark lighting. This, says Jiricna, was one of the biggest challenges of the project. ‘I am extremely fussy about lighting; the subjects can only live under the right kind of light. You need different levels for different things – especially in these circumstances, where some objects can’t be exposed to very bright light, for conservation reasons. The light itself needs to be invisible, but diamonds need to be lit from the front. The object must sparkle, but the light must not then be blinding when you turn a fraction.’

Jiricna went to every single jewellery display she could think of, looking at the lighting, in a quest to find the best solution. Nothing would do. Eventually, the designers made it work using fibre optics outside the top of the case and directional LEDs on the ceilings of the case interiors. An almost imperceptible slant to the vertical mount angles the jewels towards the source so they remain lit – as much as is possible – from the front. ‘We made it work, step by step, mock-up by mock-up, discussion by discussion,’ explains Jiricna. ‘We were improving it constantly. In the end, I believe the result is better than anything that has ever been done before.’

Most of all, however, the designer is proud not so much of the final design – though she should be – but of the way in which the team of people working to make it happen pulled together. ‘Everybody had a different agenda. The sponsors were very generous but also very involved, and the conservators, the museum and the curator all had their own vision for the galleries. The architect often comes in and turns everything on its head – we wanted to put all these small objects in huge cases of a peculiar shape and, as simple as it sounds, in practice it was a continuous process to understand one another. Everyone was very nervous about losing sight of their dream. In the end it was our job to provide them with options and then help them to select the best one. We all learned how good people can be when they lose their egos and work together to find the best solutions.’

This year, Helzberg Diamonds expects to expand to 264 units in 37 states. The company continues to build upon its stand-alone superstore concept and has one of the highest average store sales figures in the United Stales. In fall 2003, the retailer introduced its “value promise” concept, which communicates to both customers and associates its desire to offer straightforward pricing, superior service and exceptional quality on each sales transaction. This concept offers a pricing system where there’s no negotiating and no percentage-offs, with a commitment to build confidence with the customer.

Crescetn Jewelers

Okland, Calif,

Stores: 171

Rank: 7

Crescent Jewelers has been impacted by the ongoing financial and legal problems facing its East Coast affiliate, Friedman’s Jewelers. Like Friedman’s, Crescent lost its chief executive officer and chief financial officer (both of whom shared duties between the two companies) in the shakeup. Sterling Brinkley stepped down from the Friedman’s board of directors to assume the vacant CEO position at Crescent. Crescent also informed Friedman’s in March that Ernst & Young had resigned as independent accountants for the West Coast chain. Like Friedman’s, Crescent’s full financial results for fiscal 2003 have been delayed while the company works on restating earnings going back to 2000.

Peoples Jewellers

Irving, Texas (stores in Canada)

Stores: 167

Rank: 8

Peoples Jewellers is the Canadian division of Zale Corp. It’s the largest jewelry chain in Canada. The retailer operates through two trade names: Mappins Jewellers and Peoples Jewellers. Its headquarters are based in the Zale Corp. home office in Texas. Last year, Zale implemented factory-direct sourcing in Peoples. The strategy has allowed the company to increase diamonds as a percentage of Peoples’ business-particularly in solitaire rings, stud earrings and other basics-to save money on buying and to procure better quality than Peoples had on these items in the past. Direct sourcing also has allowed the retailer to expand the breadth of its diamond lines to include items that were considered too high-priced for customers before.

Ultra Stores Inc.

Chicago

Stores: 115

Rank: 9

Ultra Stores is a bit of a hybrid. In addition to owning and operating 87 jewelry stores, the company also operates 28 licensed jewelry departments for several other retailers, including Burlington Coat Factory, Cohoes and Daffy’s. The company considers itself an “off-price” retailer, offering customers a full selection of diamonds, color, gold, silver and watches at value prices. Ultra also offers a number of midpriced designer lines as well as branded, certified Canadian Excellent Cut Diamonds. Ultra plans to add an additional 10 units in 2004.

Samuels Jewelers Inc.

Austin, Texas

Stores: 102

Rank: 10

Samuels Jewelers may finally be on the road back to profitability. In April, the U.S. Bankruptcy Court confirmed the company’s reorganization plan, meaning that Samuels will emerge from bankruptcy as a private company, The retailer had been operating under bankruptcy protection since August 2003-its third filing since the early 1990s. Since the filing, Samuels has slimmed down from 125 stores to 102, and comp store sales increased 2 percent and 8.9 percent in January and February, respectively. Going forward, Samuels will focus on its 5,000-square-foot, freestanding, diamond superstore concept. The format offers a better, more extensive inventory and is being targeted at power strip centers in mid- to upper-income markets.

Reeds Jewelers

Wilmington, N.C.

Stores: 92

Rank: 11

Reeds Jewelers is looking to rebound from several years of downsizing. In April, the company announced financial results for the fiscal year; net sales were flat, but comp store sales increased 3 percent. The company cut its net loss in half. The family of president and CEO Alan Zimmer has formed a new company, Sparkle LLC, and has made an offer to buy out the rest of Reeds (the Zimmer family currently owns about 88 percent of the retailer). The chain also has high hopes for its first off-mall concept, which opened in May in its home base of Wilmington, N.C. The new flagship unit is a prototype to determine whether an upscale lifestyle center format is viable.

Hannoush Jewelers

West Springfield, Mass.

Stores: 74

Rank: 12

Hannoush Jewelers owns and operates 53 of its own stores as well as 21 franchise locations. The New England retailer directly imports its diamonds and also manufacturers its own fine jewelry, which is then sold through Hannoush’s own locations throughout the Northeast and Midwest. Started in 1980 by eight brothers from Lebanon, Hannoush is now one of the largest family-owned jewelry operations in the country. The company has been beefing up its bridal presentation and has plans to add another two units in 2004.

Rogers Enterprises

Matteson, Ill.

Stores: 73

Rank: 13

Rogers Enterprises is one of the largest jewelers in the Midwest, and one of the few large chains to create its own jewelry designs. The company offers a complete line of bridal, diamond fashion, colored stones, pearls, karat gold, men’s jewelry and watches as well as its own exclusive collection. Rogers has been expanding aggressively throughout the Midwest: The retailer added eight units in 2003 and plans to open another eight in 2004.

Ben Bridge Jeweler

Seattle

Stores: 72

Rank: 14

Ben Bridge Jeweler is a guild chain that operates 72 stores in 11 western states. The company has plans to open an additional two stores in 2004. Ben Bridge prides itself on having more registered jewelers and certified gemologists from the American Gem Society on staff than any other jeweler in the country. The company has its own waich boutiques and carries a number of distinctive brand names such as Rolex, Mikimoto, Toscano, David Yurman, TAG Heuer and Omega, as well as proprietary diamond brands such as Signature and Ikuma. Berkshire Hathaway owns the company.

Don Roberto

San Clemente, Calif.

Stores: 71

Rank: 15

Don Roberto is steadily expanding up and down the state of California. The company expects to open both its northernmost and southernmost California locations some time in June. The chain says it may have as many as 75 locations by the end of the year. Don Roberto has also kept its merchandising focus steady over the years. The company continues to purchase fine name brand watch lines and stock heavily in diamonds and gold. Don Roberto officials expect Christmas 2004 to be a breakout season.

Charm Jewelry Ltd.

Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

Stores: 58

Rank: 16 (tie)

Charm Jewelry has achieved its success very quickly. Founded in 1972 in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, the retailer is now the second largest jewelry chain in Canada and the largest independently-owned Canadian jewelry store. The company has stores throughout Alberta, New Brunswick, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Ontario, Prince Edward island and Saskatchewan. Charm Jewelry operates under two main store banners: Charm Diamond Centres and Crescent Gold & Diamonds. The company plans to open three additional units in 2004.

Na Hoku

Honolulu

Stores: 58

Rank: 16 (tie)

Na Hoku, formerly known as The Sultan Co., has launched a major marketing campaign to build awareness of its new corporate name, which is Hawaiian for “stars.” The company is the premier purveyor of Hawaiian/island lifestyle jewelry and has expanded the concept to the mainland through stores in California, Colorado, Florida, Illinois, Nevada, Pennsylvania and Virginia. Na Hoku is also a vertically integrated company, manufacturing approximately half the product it sells in its stores. In 2004, the company expects to open three new stores.

King’s of New Castle

New Castle, Pa.

Stores: 51

Rank: 18 (tie)

King’s of New Castle has long been considered one of the country’s finest regional chains. In 2000, the retailer won the “Western Pennsylvania Family Business of the Year” award from the Family Enterprise Center at the University of Pittsburgh. Although King’s has no current plans to open stores this year, the 90-year-old company has been very aggressive with its expansion strategy in the past. The chain is known for offering high-quality, high-value jewelry at affordable prices and with excellent service.

Tiffany & Co.

New York

Stores: 51

Rank: 18 (tie)

Tiffany is one of the world’s premier jewelry names. Although the famous jeweler only operates 51 stores in the United States, it has more than 100 stores and boutiques worldwide. U.S. retail sales are the largest part of Tiffany’s business and account for about 47 percent of total sales. The chain had a strong fourth quarter and fiscal year. For fiscal 2003, Tiffany reported a 17 percent increase in net sales, an 8 percent increase in comp store sales and a 13 percent increase in earnings. Tiffany’s 2004 U.S. openings include stores in Palm Beach Gardens, Fla.; Edina, Minn.; Kansas City, Mo.; and Westport, Conn.

Ben Moss Jewellers

Winnipeg, Manitoba, CAnada

Stores: 48

Rank: 20

Ben Moss Jewellers is the third largest jewelry chain in Canada. Founded in 1910, this family business is considered one of the best-run companies in Canada and has received numerous awards, including being selected as one of Canada’s “Top Ten Employers for Women”; being recognized as one of Canada’s 50 best-managed companies for six consecutive years; and being named “Best Retail Chain” by Canadian Jeweller Magazine. Ben Moss will continue its aggressive expansion with two new store openings planned for this year.

Ritico Inc.

Rapid City, S.D.

Stores: 45

Rank: 21 (tie)

Ridco, parent company of Riddle’s Jewelry, is truly a family operation. Founded in 1958, the company has had about 24 Riddle family members on staff over the years, with more than a dozen still active in the business. The company specializes in diamonds, karat gold, colored stones and Black Hills Gold. Ridco also manufactures much of the jewelry it sells at its own jewelry factory, enabling the company to pass savings on to the consumer. In 2004, Ridco plans to open at least two stores (but may open as many as five).

Rogers Ltd.

Middletown, Ohio

Stores: 45

Rank: 21 (tie)

Rogers, a family-owned business, was founded in 1920. Ted Lazarow, chairman of the board, established the company in Middletown, a community conveniently located between Cincinnati and Dayton. Since then, the company has grown into one of the nation’s largest regional jewelry chains. Rogers officials say this growth is based on the company’s commitment to high-quality jewelry at competitive value, trust, integrity and financial stability. Some of the company’s notable collections include Carat Plus, the Andre Lazar Colourless Diamond collection, Perfectly Cut Diamonds and Bridal 2004. Rogers plans to open an additional one to two stores this year.

Sherwood Management Co.

Culver City, Calif.

Stores: 44

Rank: 23

Sherwood Management, which does business under the Daniel’s Jewelers name, is the largest independent jewelry chain in Southern California. This family-owned operation was founded 55 years ago by the Sherwoods, who still run the business. Daniel’s is known for its selection and value as well as its success in catering to the Hispanic community. Last year, the company was in a bit of a holding pattern in terms of growth. But this year, Sherwood expects to open three to five new stores.

Maui Divers of Hawaii

Honololu

Stores: 41

Rank: 24

Maui Divers of Hawaii was founded in 1958 in Lahaina, Maui, and is now the second largest jewelry chain in Hawaii. The company is completely vertically integrated; every piece of jewelry it sells is manufactured in its design center in Honolulu. Maui Divers is known for its Hawaiian-themed jewelry and is the world’s largest precious coral jewelry manufacturer. The company is also known for its gold jewelry, cultured pearls and South Sea pearl designs. Maui Divers is planning an ambitious expansion this year, which includes six stores on Oahu, one on Maui, one on Guam and two in Los Angeles.

Corey’s Jewelry

Troy, Mich.

Stores: 38

Rank: 25 (tie)

Corey’s Jewelry has its roots in fashion; it was founded in 1949 as a women’s ready-to-wear-store in Detroit. However, jewelry was the most successful category in that store and became the company’s sole focus with the opening of the first Corey’s Jewel Box in 1954. Back then, the company sold fashion jewelry. Now, Corey’s offers a full line of fine jewelry as well as sterling silver and cubic zirconia. The company has slowed expansion in recent years and has trimmed two stores since last year. No new units are planned for 2004.

Four Points Corp.

yLouisville, Ky.

Stores: 38

Rank: 25 (tie)

Four Points is one of the largest regional jewelry chains in the country, with 39 stores in Arizona, Colorado, Indiana, Kentucky, Nevada, Ohio, Utah and Wyoming. The company operates under three main banners: Brendan Diamonds (25 locations), J.C. Keepsake (13 locations) and Only Diamonds (one location). The company, formerly known as Gross Diamond Centers, acquired Only Diamonds in 1998 and J.C. Keepsake/Brendan Diamonds in 1999. After trimming some stores in 2003, Four Points anticipates opening four new stores this year.

Henry Birks & Sons

Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Stores: 38

Rank: 27

Henry Birks & Sons is the fourth largest jewelry chain in Canada and one of the country’s premier upscale jewelers. The retailer operates under both the Birks and Henry Birks & Sons banners. In addition to its Canadian operations, Henry Birks & Sons also is the parent company of the Mayors Jewelers chain in Florida. Henry Birks & Sons bought a 72 percent stake in the U.S. guild chain in 2002 and has said it plans to buy more. The company manufactures the vast majority of its fine jewelry, sterling ware, crystal, timepieces and gilts in its own studio and factories.

Carlyle & Co. Jewelers

Greenboro, N.C.

Stores: 36

Rank: 28 (tie)

Although Carlyle & Co. has downsized somewhat in recent years, the company remains a major force along the Atlantic Coast. The retailer operates under three trade banners: Carlyle & Co., J.E. Caldwell and Park Promenade Jewellers. Carlyle officials say the company is very focused on enhancing its back office systems to improve its level of customer service. At the store level, the company is focusing on strategies to enhance its relationships with existing customers, while advertising is targeted toward generating new customers. Company officials believe there are “enormous opportunities” to improve its existing group of stores.

James Avery Craftsman

Kerrville, Texas

Stores: 38

Rank: 28 (tie)

James Avery Craftsman was founded by James Avery in 1954. The company operates stores in the heart of the Texas Hill Country, with 32 stores in Texas and an additional two each in Oklahoma and Georgia. James Avery Craftsman is a vertically integrated jeweler; the company designs, manufactures, markets and sells its lines through its own stores and mail order division. The company also sells its original jewelry, accessory and gift designs to more than 200 independent retailers. In 2004, the company plans to open one store in College Station, Texas, in July, and another in Atlanta, in August.

Cartier

Shelton, Conn.

Stores: 32

Rank: 30

Cartier, one of the premier luxury brands in the world, continues to expand its brand name and influence in the United States. The 157-year-old company, owned by the Swiss-based luxury goods group Richemont, is one of the world’s largest luxury watchmakers. The prestigious company also sells its own line of jewelry, clocks, perfume, leather goods, apparel, accessories, gifts and other luxury items. Cartier sells its wares through more than 200 retail boutiques worldwide-including 32 U.S. locations-and through licensees and retail concessions. This year, the company is launching four new watches, two jewelry collections, an eyewear collection and a pen.

Harry Ritchie’s Jewelers

Eugene, Ore.

Stores: 28

Rank: 31 (tie)

Harry Ritchie’s Jewelers has been one of the leading jewelry operations in the Pacific Northwest for more than 47 years. The company has 28 stores in northern California, Idaho, Oregon and Washington, and has been steadily expanding in recent years. As a member of the Leadingjewclers Guild, the retailer offers the exclusive Love Story Jewelry collection. Harry Ritchie’s also carries the Hearts On Fire diamond. Already one of the Northwest’s largest credit jewelers, the retailer says it’s setting its sights on becoming the premier credit jeweler in the country. This year, Harry Ritchie’s will open a new store in Lewislon, Idaho.

Mayors Jewelers

Sunrise, Fla.

Stores: 28

Rank: 31 (tie)

Mayors Jewelers is a leading luxury retail chain with 23 stores in Florida and five in Georgia. Mayors is owned by Canadian jewelry chain Henry Birks & Sons, which purchased the company in 2002. After a near disastrous attempt at trying to create a national luxury chain a few years ago, Mayors is back on track. In the last two years, the company has closed 12 stores outside its core markets. For the fiscal third quarter, the company saw net sales increase by 15.4 percent, comp store sales increase by 14 percent and net income increase by 41 percent. In April, the company opened its first free-standing store in Florida. If successful, the 5,200-square-foot prototype will serve as a model for future off-mall expansion.

Kara Group

North York, Ontario, Canada

Stores: 26

Rank: 33

Kara Group, formerly known as Kerns Jewelry, is Canada’s fifth-largest jewelry chain with 26 locations. This family-owned business was established in 1939. The retailer operates stores throughout Ontario under two trade names: Kara Jewellers and Griffin Jewellery Designs. The company sells a complete range of diamond, colored stone and karat gold jewelry as well as designer brand watches, all at affordable prices. Kara also carries costume jewelry and accessories. The company plans to open three more stores this year in Ontario. Future plans call for expansion outside of Ontario, particularly in the Maritime Provinces and British Columbia.

K’s Merchandise Mart

Decatur, Ill.

Stores: 24

Rank: 34

K’s Merchandise Mart is a 24-store retailer with locations in Florida, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky and Missouri. The company operates 17 K’s Merchandise Mart department stores (formerly catalog showrooms) and seven Eldridge Fine Jewelry stores. The retailer plans to open two to three stores in 2004. Customers can now negotiate online to purchase loose diamonds through a portion of the company’s Web site known as Ray’s Diamond Mine. However, they must come into the store to make the actual purchase. One of the company’s initiatives is to offer online purchasing.

Saslow’s Inc.

Greensboro, N.C.

Stores: 23

Rank: 35

Saslow’s is a farnily-owned-and-operated jewelry business that includes 23 stores throughout North Carolina, Tennessee and Virginia. The retailer does business under two trade names: Saslow’s Jewelers (established in 1922) in North Carolina and Tennessee, and Henebry’s Jewelers (established in 1900) in Virginia. A few years ago, the company had as many as 29 units, but has since scaled down due to the uncertain economy. The company says it’s ready to resume expansion and plans two new store openings in 2004.

Western Stone & Metal

Englewood, Colo.

Stores: 22

Rank: 36

Western Stone & Metal, otherwise known as Shane Co., is a leading regional chain with 22 stores in 11 states. All the retailer’s stores operate under the Shane Co. name. Founded in 1971, the company specializes in diamonds, colored stones, gold jewelry and pearls. The company is a direct diamond importer and purchases its diamonds and other precious stones in Antwerp, Belgium; Bangkok, Thailand; and Bombay, India. Unlike most mall-based chain stores, Shane stores are freestanding units. Shane stores are 10,000-square-foot “category killers” that turn inventory more than twice per year.

Christian Bernard Stores

Secaucus, N.J.

Stores: 11

Rank: 37 (tie)

For 30 years, Christian Bernard has been one of France’s elite jewelers and watchmakers. The company is also one of the world’s foremost luxury watch and jewelry manufacturers and designers. In the United States, Christian Bernard markets its exclusive collections through 17 retail stores in 10 major markets across the country. The last two years, the company has slowed its U.S. growth; no new stores are planned here in 2004. But the company says it’s focused on international expansion.

Harris Originals

Islandia, N.Y.

Stores: 17

Rank: 37 (tie)

Harris Originals (also known as Harris Jewelry) was founded in 1955 with the goal of providing U.S. military service people with a venue for purchasing quality jewelry on credit arrangements especially created for their needs. Today, the company is one of the premier retail jewelers for military personnel worldwide, with more than 500,000 customers that visit its stores and online shop. The company has 17 stores in 11 states. Harris just opened a new store in Virginia Beach, Va., in May. Plans call for the retailer to open one more location this year.

Lemons Jewelry

Waynesboro, Va.

Stores: 17

Rank: 31 (tie)

Lemons Jewelry is a leading regional chain in the Southeast. The company specializes in offering diamond jewelry and brand name watches at great values. This family-owned business operates 17 stores in North Carolina and Virginia. In terms of expansion, the company has remained conservative for a number of years: Although it grew to 19 stores two years ago, it’s back to the number of units it had in the late 1990s.

Alvin’s Jewelers

Cleveland

Stores: 18

Rank: 40 (tie)

Alvin’s Jewelers has been an institution in the Akron, Cleveland and Sanclusky markets of Ohio for more than 70 years. Founded in 1931, the upscale retailer is still owned and operated by the Schreibman family. Alvin’s does business under three trade names: Alvin’s Jewelers, Alson Jewelers and Marlo’s Jewelers. The company is a member of the Leading Jewelers Guild, and is known for its American Gem Society-certified diamonds, branded diamonds, upscale designer collections, brand name fine timepieces, unique accessories and guts, and similar luxury items.

Ellenstein Stores

Evansvilie, Ind.

Stores: 16

Rank: 40 (tie)

Ellenstein Stores opened its first store in Indiana in 1934 and now has 16 locations throughout Indiana, Kentucky and Missouri. The company operates under three trade banners: Roger’s Jewelers, Starr’s Jewelers and Michael’s Jewelers. The company is known for its wide selection of merchandise at affordable prices. Ellenstein offers a branded bridal line called the “Promise” collection, which features creations from premier jewelry designers from around the world. The company is on a slow but steady growth track: After opening one new location in 2003, Ellenslein anticipates opening another one to two stores in 2004.

Fink’s Jewelers

Roanoke, Va.

Stores; 18

Rank: 40 (tie)

Fink’s Jewelers is considered one of the most prestigious jewelry chains in the country. Established in Virginia in 1930, this 16-store guild operation is still owned and operated by its founding family. Fink’s has locations throughout Virginia and North Carolina. The company is known for its exceptional diamonds, high-end designer jewelry collections and Swiss timepieces. The stores carry such jewelry brands as David Yurman, Mikimoto, Elara Diamonds, Marco Bicego, Diana Bridal, Rilani, Di Modolo, Honora, Varna, Chimenlo and Rembrandt Charms. Watch brands include Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, Patek Philippe, Raymond Weil and TAG Heuer, among others. Fink’s is an American Gem Society (AGS) jeweler with more AGS-certified gemologists and registered jewelers on staff than any other jewelry store in the region.

Morgan Management

Salt Lake City

Stores: 16

Rank: 40 (tie)

Morgan Management is one of the West’s leading regional jewelers. The company owns and operates 16 Morgan Jewelers locations throughout Montana, Nevada, Oregon, Utah and Washington. Founded by Nate Morgan in 1914, it’s a third-generation family-owned business. The retailer is known for its strong bridal jewelry business and strong customer service. Hearts On Fire is one of its key diamond brands, along with the Love Story collection exclusively sold by members of the Leading Jewelers Guild.

CR Jewelers

Coral Springs, Fla.

Stores: 15

Rank: 44 (tie)

CR Jewelers, formerly known as Chain Reaction Jewelers, is a 15-store company with locations in Arizona, California, Florida, Maryland, Michigan, New Jersey, North Carolina, Tennessee, Texas and Virginia. For more than 20 years, the company has been known for its moderately priced jewelry. But CR Jewelers offers a wide range of merchandise at a wide range of prices. The chain does business under two trade names: CR Jewelers and CR Jewelers Diamond Outlet. The company’s stores average about 1,250 square feet.

DeVons Jewelers

Sacramento, Calif.

Stores: 15

Rank: 44 (tie)

DeVons Jewelers has been a fixture in the northern California market for more than 70 years and is one of the region’s largest jewelry chains. Established in 1929, it’s still run by the founding Merksamer family. The company currently has 14 stores in California and one in Nevada. DeVons sells a range of diamond and gold jewelry, watches and men’s accessories, and does its own watch and jewelry repairs on-site. The company has been relatively stable in recent years and expects to maintain its current store count in 2004.

Ross-Simons Jewelers

Cranston, R.I.

Stores: 14

Rank: 48

Although it has only 14 stores, Ross-Simons Jewelers is far from regional. The company has one of the largest catalog operations in the country and accounts for nearly $250 million in jewelry sales from its mail order, store and Internet businesses. Founded in 1952, Ross-Simons operates a guild store division that includes 11 jewelry stores and three outlet stores the company uses to sell closeout goods. Ross-Simons has locations in nine states. The retailer opened a store in Paramus, N.J., in November 2003, and closed a store in Barrington, R.I., in January 2004.

Goldenwest Diamond Corp.

Tustin, Calif.

Stores: 13

Rank: 47

Goldenwest Diamond operates single stores in 13 major markets across the country. It’s one of the nation’s largest jewelry retailers with sales in the $120 million range. Established in 1977, the company trades under three banners: The Jewelry Exchange, The Jewelry Factory and The Jewelry Source. Goldenwest’s large stores are destination locations in strip centers and range in size from 2,500 square feet to 6,000 square feet. The company is one of the largest direct diamond importers in the country and manufactures about 98 percent of the merchandise it sells on-site. This year, Goldenwest expects to open two new stores.

Michaels

Waterbury, Conn.

Stores: 12

Rank: 48 (tie)

Michaels Jewelers is one of Connecticut’s leading retailers with 12 stores throughout the stale. The company, established in 1875, is still owned and operated by the founding Michaels family. Michaels, an American Gem Society jeweler, is considered one of the premier independent jewelry operations in the country. Michaels operates stores averaging 2,000 square feet and sells a wide range of belter diamond, colored stone and karat gold jewelry, fine timepieces, estate jewelry and giftware. The company has maintained 12 units for a number of years and has no current plans to expand.

Pollack Corp.

Scarborough, Maine

Stores: 12

Rank: 48 (tie)

G.M. Pollack & Sons Jewelers is one of New England’s most successful jewelers and is regarded as one of the lop independent jewelry chains in the country. The company’s roots in the region run deep; the business was established in 1936 and is still owned and operated by the Pollack family. The chain has 10 stores in Maine and two in New Hampshire. The company is the exclusive carrier of the Hearts On Fire diamond in Maine and offers a wide selection of diamonds, fine jewelry, watches, gifts, silver, china and crystal. The retailer operates stores in the 2,200-square-foot range.

Reeds Jewelers of Niagara Falls

Amtierst, N.Y.

Stores: 12

Rank: 48 (tie)

Reeds jewelers has been serving the downtown Niagara Falls area since 1912. This family-owned business operates 12 stores, wilh eight in New York, and one each in Connecticut, New Jersey, Ohio and Pennsylvania. In addition to its retail operations, the company manufactures much of the jewelry it sells and is a direct diamond and gem importer. Reeds carries a wide assortment of bridal and fashion diamond jewelry, colored stone jewelry, karat gold jewelry, designer jewelry and watches.

The 49th annual Miss Northwestern – Lady of the tiffany Bracelet Scholarship Program will be held Friday, Feb. 8 at 7 p.m. in the A.A. Fredericks Auditorium.

Six NSU students are scheduled to compete in the event, which is a preliminary for the Miss Louisiana Pageant. The winner will receive more than $5,000 in scholarships and prizes.

Admission is $5 and free for NSU and Louisiana School for Math, Science and the Arts students.

The mistress of ceremonies will be Amanda Joseph, Miss Louisiana 2007.Entertainment will be provided by the NSU Jazz Orchestra and the LOB Dancers.

Contestants include Laura Burns of Alexandria, Michaela Smith of Minden, Carley McCord of Baton Rouge, Sara Mayeux of Lake Charles, Nichole Rogerson of Austin, Texas, and Mandi Ridgdell of Sorrento.

Burns is a senior psychology and addiction students major. She is the daughter of Robert and Sharon Burns. A member of the NSU Choir, she is a member of the Psychology Club and Psi Chi. Burns has been a President’s List and Dean’s List student.

Smith is the daughter of Sylenda Dixon. She is a freshman biology major. Smith is a necklaces member of the Spirit of Northwestern Marcing Band. She is the recipient of an Alpha Kappa Alpha Scholarship and earned an academic competitive award.

McCord is a freshman criminal justice major and is the daughter of Karen and Tracy McCord. She is a member of Sigma Sigma Sigma Sorority and is an NSU Presidential Ambassador. McCord is the recipient of a NSU Theatre and Sweet Adelines Scholarship. She is active in the Governor’s Program on Abstinence and is a Peer Ministry/Peer Leader.

Mayeux is the daughter of Jimmy and Laurie Mayeux. She is a sophonore liberal arts major with a concenration in scientific inquiry. Mayeux is a member of the NSU Chamber Choir and Sigma Alpha Iota. She is active in the Baptist Collegiate Ministry. Mayeux is a Dean’s List student and is the recipient of academic and music performance scholarships.

Rogerson is a freshman hospitality, management and tourism major and is the daughter of Bobbi and tiffany accessories Clint Rogerson. She is a member of Alpha Omicron Pi, the University Concert Choir and the NSU Women’s Choir. Rogerson is a member of the National Honor Society.

Ridgdell is a senior theatre major. She is the daughter of Lori and Kennie Ridgdell. A member of Alpha Omicron Pi, she is a member of the Student Theatre Organization, the Order of Omega, Gamma Sigma Alpha and Rho Lambda. Ridgdell is a President’s List and Dean’s List student. She was first runner up in last year’s Miss Northwestern – Lady of the Bracelet Pageant.Contact: David West, 318/357-6466, west@nsula.edu.

A worldwide rush to gold, not the tab for gifts such as six geese-a-laying tiffany or 11 pipers piping, could intrude on the ultimate expression of love this Christmas.

A whimsical Christmas price index based on the romantic holiday tune “The Twelve Days of Christmas” rose by just 1.8 percent in 2009 after an 8 percent jump last year and a 3.1 percent increase in 2007. This year’s increase was the smallest in seven years.

“Certainly the challenges the economy has faced over the last year have impacted the … index overall,” said James Dunigan, managing executive for investments in the wealth management unit at Pittsburgh-based PNC Financial Services Group Inc., which compiles the index annually.

“We saw wages in many cases [remain] stable. The price of goods did not increase as much. But then gold would show a dramatic increase that was certainly reflected in this year’s … index.”

Gold has rocketed to more than $1,175 an ounce as investors concerned about the continued fall key rings of the U.S. dollar seek security in more tangible assets. Consequently, the cost of five gold rings given by one sweetheart to another in the Christmas song soared 42.9 percent to $499.95 this year from $349.95 in 2008, PNC said. PNC is the parent of National City Bank, which operates 21 branches in metro Toledo and surrounding areas.

Overall, purchasing each of the gifts mentioned cost $21,465.56, up $385.46 from 2008. The rate of increase was the smallest since a 7.6 percent decline in 2002.

Still, the 2009 change wasn’t enough to match this year’s 1.5 percent drop in the federal government’s barometer of living expenses known as the Consumer Price Index.

And contrary to the perception that Internet retailers offer lower

prices on everything, the same merchandise would have cost $9,970 more, or $31,435.85, if purchased online — largely because of convenience and shipping costs for birds, PNC officials said.

For other purchases, PNC, which began the index in 1983, consulted pet stores, aviaries, jewelry stores, and necklaces institutions such as the Pennsylvania Ballet (to obtain the cost of renting the services of 10 lords a-leaping).

Declines in the cost of birds were a major factor in the moderate rise in the index, bank officials added. The price of four “calling birds”- canaries — was unchanged at $599.96.

Local romantics intent on giving flight to their love probably would find even better deals in Toledo. At Pet Supplies Plus on Alexis Road, four canaries cost between $360 and $520 — when available.

Manager Jenny Meyer has none in stock now.

But it’s no crisis. Canaries hardly rank with Xbox gaming systems and Zhu Zhu Pets on holiday wish lists. “It’s not something somebody would buy at Christmas,” Ms. Meyer conceded.

She said she would be less than thrilled to receive such a gift from her beloved: “I like shiny things, not things that need to be cleaned up after.”

The price for a partridge in a pear tree fell by 27 percent to $159.99, with the partridge down by half to $10 and the pear tree declining 25 percent to $149.99.

The only birds showing price increases were two turtle doves, up 1.8 percent to $55.98 and three French hens, Tiffany Accessories up 50 percent to $45.

Among other gifts mentioned in the song, the cost of hiring eight maids-a-milking rose $5.60 to $58. PNC described them as “the only unskilled laborers” in the index and attributed the increase to a boost in the federal minimum wage to $7.25 an hour.

Along with the index, the bank also calculates “the true cost of Christmas,” or “the total cost of items gifted by a true love who repeats all of the song’s verses.”

This year’s tab? $87,402.81, a mere 0.9 percent more Tiffany Keys than in 2008.

The Auburn Merchants plan to have a “Dickens of a Christmas” this weekend with their annual discount tiffany Christmas open house.

The event, which will be from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday and Saturday, will include a variety of activities, including demonstrations by artisans and craftsmen, a performance of different acts of the Charles Dickens classic “A Christmas Carol” at various shops, string quartets, church choirs and strolling carolers.

Following the last act of “A Christmas Carol” on Saturday, a high tea will be available at Federal Grove Bed & Breakfast. Tickets are $5.95 and are available at participating merchants. Free transportation will be provided from downtown to the locations of the last three acts.

Activities will include the following:

Friday

Artisans and craftsmen will conduct demonstrations from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at the shops.

–T-shirt screen printing by LeAnn Meguiar at Meguiar Printing key rings

–Artists Sonny Green and Dale Young at Almost New Shop

–Chair caning by Margaret Fitzgerald at Lion & Lamb Antiques

–Oil lamp problem solutions by Jim McBride at Lion & Lamb Antiques

–Bow making by Helen Chyle at Unique Designs

–Inexpensive Christmas gifts by Patricia Farmer at Yard necklaces Sale Shop

–Garden items by Brenda Fuller at On the Square

Saturday

–10 a.m. — Master woodworker Lewis Chapman at Almost New Shop

–11 a.m. — “Scrooge in his Counting House” at Almost New Shop

–11:45 a.m. — “The Ghost of Jacob Marley” at Lion & Lamb Antiques

–12:30 p.m. — “The Ghost of Christmas Past” at City Hall Tiffany Accessories Council Chambers

–1:15 p.m. — “The Ghost of Christmas Present” at Colonial House Furniture

–2 p.m. — “The Ghost of Christmas Future” at Countryside Bake Shop

–2:45 p.m. — “Christmas Day” at Federal Grove Bed & Breakfast

Credit: The Daily News, Bowling Green, Ky.

The question before us today is how early is too early to embrace the holiday spirit.

Specifically: When is it OK for a radio station to begin playing all Christmas tiffany music, all the time?

Several years ago I did a column on this topic after WOLX/FM 94.9 began an all-Christmas-music format the day before Thanksgiving.

That seemed pretty early. OK, really early. But then, a couple of weeks ago, I was driving around Madison punching the radio buttons in my car and heard the unmistakable sound of “Do You Hear What I Hear?”

This year, WOLX went all Christmas music on Nov. 5.

Before addressing the timing of the format switch, let me add that the artist singing “Do You Hear What I Hear?” on WOLX was not Bob Dylan, although it might have been.

Dylan released a holiday album, “Christmas in the Heart,” in October, and “Do You Hear What I Hear?” is on it, along with “Here Comes Santa Claus,” “Silver Bells,” “Winter Wonderland” and several others.

On Monday it ranked No. 22 on Amazon’s best-seller list, though not everyone has been impressed.

One Amazon reviewer, C.B. Manges of Pennsylvania, headlined his review, “Oh God, Make the Bad Man Stop necklaces,” and wrote the following: “I love Christmas. I love Bob Dylan. This collection of Christmas cacophony causes me to cringe. Forced to sit through it again I might very well have to hang myself by the chimney with care.”

On Monday, WOLX program director David Moore said the station has not played the new Dylan album, but expects that WOLX’s sister station, 105.5-Triple M, may do so somewhat closer to Christmas.

Moore also said the reason WOLX went all Christmas so early this year is the same reason it has been going all Christmas for nearly a decade now. It works. People listen, and ratings go up.

“It’s huge,” Moore said. “There’s a significant audience increase. It was so successful last year that we decided to do it around the same time this year.” Last year WOLX went all Christmas on Nov. 7.

The phenomenon is not unique to Madison, of course. Hundreds of radio stations around the country now go all Christmas music this time of year. In Fresno, Calif., last year, three separate radio stations went all Christmas.

Even among those true believers, however, there is disagreement about how early is too early to pull the trigger.

The program director at one of the Fresno stations was quoted in the Fresno Bee: “Christmas music before Thanksgiving is Tiffany Keys just ludicrous.”

Moore of WOLX said the earliest he has heard of a station making the switch is Halloween.

Love it or loathe it, the all-Christmas formats debuted more or less by accident in the mid-1990s. Stations that were just signing on the air, or considering a format switch, would begin playing Christmas songs a few days before the holiday. Then, without alerting anyone, and often on Christmas Day itself, they’d dramatically switch to their new format.

That stunt would generate interest in the new format, but radio executives noticed something else. Many listeners got in touch to say they liked the continuous Christmas music. And a new format was born.

Apparently, a lot of people like it. Personally, I can’t stand it, and if that makes me a Scrooge, well, at least I can switch stations.

It reminds me of the time in December 1997 when a vice president at Home Savings on the Capitol Square called to tell me the bank had begun playing “It’s a Wonderful Life,” the Jimmy Stewart tear-jerker Christmas movie, in their lobby, over and over, during every hour it was open.

“Dear God,” I said.

“Isn’t it wonderful?” she said.

Now I know what I should have said. I should have said the next thing we know, Bob Dylan will release a Christmas Tiffany Accessories album.